俄羅斯芭蕾舞,堅掂!

Russian Ballet, real ROCK!

俄羅斯芭蕾舞舉世聞名,無論如何都想看,於是托旅館幫我訂票,到莫斯科後再俾錢旅館。

 

我在2015年8月到莫斯科,住的是Comrade Hostel,在市中心,步行十分鐘即到紅牆。旅館員工Svetlana極好人,由旅館地點、入住日期、訂票雜項等,來回廿多封電郵都仔細回答,有條不紊、效率極高,而且旅館房租與芭蕾票錢都可以在登記入住時,才一併付現金,極度貼心,真的十分感激Svetlana!可惜她每周只上班幾天,另外替班的男生態度極差,十問九不知,加上Comrade Hostel無電梯,只有兩層多樓梯,行李笨重的旅人要注意了;Comrade Hostel的衛生、房間、房友都一般,不算最好,也不是最差,算是間不過不失的青年旅舍。

開場前兩周托旅館訂了芭蕾舞的票,總共兩場,一場是新潮的Spartak ballet,一場是古典的天鵝湖。

俄羅斯不愧是芭蕾大國啊~兩場都超好看,超正!

 

上演Spartak ballet的劇院不近觀光景點,靠著google map疾走20分鐘才飢餓地到達,俄羅斯劇院開場前都有三文治等飽肚小食售賣,味道不錯:)

 

觀看天鵝湖的觀眾極多,梗位旁再加位,秩序混亂,開場前五分鐘我還找不到自己的座位,我着急的抓着俄羅斯大媽帶位員求救,她隨便指示我坐前排空位,我後來發現我的票應該在大後方,誤打誤撞坐到大前方,第一次坐得咁前,連舞蹈員的表情也看得一清二楚,真的超漂亮,好優美,勁感動!

 

芭蕾劇無對白,不懂俄語也沒關係,所有舞蹈員的功架都蒼勁有力,感受到他們對芭蕾的專注、熱愛。

我在香港也有看芭蕾舞,總覺有點不對勁,卻又說不出問題所在。

莫斯科是我第一次在海外看芭蕾,大開眼界後,終於說得出香港芭蕾的問題,作為觀眾,我看香港芭蕾投入不到,無共鳴,舞蹈員只是舞蹈員,踢腿只是機械式踢腿;但莫斯科芭蕾的舞蹈員讓我感覺到,他們不止是舞蹈員,更是藝術家,簡單動作如踢腿,也踢得有感情,能讓觀眾明白這一踢是悲傷、那一踢是喜悅、下一踢是憤怒,進而推進劇情。

作為觀眾,我看得懂異國異語的莫斯科芭蕾,卻看不懂本土本語的香港芭蕾,可能是我的問題,但香港那個最大型的、年年都受政府資助的芭蕾舞團,為何首演後公然刪走長達20分鐘的文革戲?為何舞團內絕少香港本地舞蹈員?為何演出劇目年年一樣、毫無突破?

放眼世界、走到最遠,才看清距離自己最近的香港,未來漫漫長路,拭目以待!

 

 

I really want to see the world-famous Russian Ballet so I asked the hostel to book the tickets for me and collect them in Moscow.

 

I arrived in Moscow in August 2015 and was staying in Comrade Hostel in Moscow city center with a 10 minutes walking distance from Red Square. Svetlana, the hostel stuff was a super sweet girl. She detail answered every question about the hostel location, the arrival date and the ballet tickets in our 20+ emails with a high efficiency. I can even pay in cash for the hostel rent and the ballet tickets when I check-in the hostel in Moscow. Really appreciate. It’s a real pity that Svetlana only worked in the hostel for a few days as a part time stuff.

The other part time guy in the hostel was really rude and lazy. He didn’t know Moscow at all. He had NO answers to ANY questions.

There is NO lift in Comrade Hostel with a 2-floors stair. Beware if you carry a heavy luggage.

The hygiene, rooms and travelers in Comrade Hostel were average standard, not the best nor the worst. It’s just a hostel.

 

I have asked the hostel to book 2 ballet tickets in 2 weeks advance. One for the trendy Spartak Ballet and one for the classic Swan Lake.

Both shows are super awesome, super cool. Russian ballet really ROCK indeed!

 

The theatre of the Spartak ballet was not close to tourist spots. I have to scurry 20 minutes with google map and arrival in the theatre with a hungry stomach. Luckily there are sandwiches for sale in every Russian theatre before the show, delicious:)

 

There were a HUGH crowd of chaos audience in the Swan lake ballet show and there were extra chairs added beside the standard fixed seats. The curtain would be opened in 5 minutes and I still couldn’t find my seat. I nervously grabbed a Russian usher lady for help and she just casually pointed me to an empty seat in the front rows section. Later I found out my seat should be way back and I just have a lucky seat. That was my first time to sit so CLOSE to the stage and I can even see the facial expressions of every dancer. The ballet was so beautiful, so elegant and I was so moved!

 

There was no dialogue in ballet so it didn’t make a big difference between Russian speakers or non-Russian speakers. Every Russian ballet dancers were very devoted in every move and I can feel their focus and passion in ballet.

I have seen ballet shows in Hong Kong and I always felt there were something not right but just can’t tell what’s wrong.

That was my first time to watch a ballet show outside Hong Kong in Moscow. I understood what’s wrong with Hong Kong ballet finally. I was NOT connected nor moved by the ballet dancers in Hong Kong as an audience. Dancers are only dancers in Hong Kong. They just did every ballet kicks machinery.

But the Moscow ballet dancers can connect and even moved the audiences. They are not just dancers and they are artists. It is a sensation in every ballet kick and they can make the audience understand that this is a kick for sadness, that is a kick for happiness and that is a kick for angry and there is a story in every movement.

 

I surprisingly understand the ballet in Moscow which is a foreign city for me but can’t understand ballet in Hong Kong which is a native city for me. That might be my problem. But I just don’t understand why the biggest ballet company in Hong Kong which sufficiently funded by government every year dare to cut away a 20 minutes scene about Chinese culture revolution after Premiere? Why there are so few local Hong Kong dancers in that ballet company? Why there are always the same routine shows every year without any breakthrough?

I have traveled far away and somehow clear the thought about my nearest Hong Kong. There is a long way ahead, let’s wait and see!

Spartak ballet,正呀~

Spartak ballet, a good show!

上演Spartak ballet的劇場

The theatre for Spartak ballet

上演天鵝湖的劇場

The theatre for Swan Lake

天鵝湖的現場配樂,玩手機當然是指定動作~

Live music for Swan Lake, mobile phone of course VERY important~

天鵝湖的觀眾好多,梗位旁再加位,秩序混亂

There were a HUGH crowd of chaos audience in the Swan lake ballet show and there were extra chairs added beside the standard fixed seats.

天鵝湖備受熱棒,人人舉機拍攝

Everyone loves Swan Lake and took photos

Comrade Hostel的長樓梯

The long stairs of Comrade Hostel.

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