里斯本市

Lisbon City

 

上圖是里斯本著名地標,Rossio廣場,極多扒手,小心小心。

 

我在里斯本待了六天,已被劫過三次,幸好零損失。

 

里斯本鬧市的Rossio廣場、旁邊的購物大道與電車都是重災區,亞裔臉孔+揹背包的我100%會成為扒手目標,我在莫斯科、倫敦、哥本哈根、奧斯陸、斯德哥爾摩、赫爾辛基、聖彼得堡、塔林、裡加、維爾紐斯、華沙、布魯塞爾、根特、阿姆斯特丹、烏得勒支、盧森堡、都柏林、哥爾韋、愛丁堡一~直~都把背包放在背後,從未遇劫,但在里斯本一定要將背包放在前面,否則100%遇劫。

 

Rossio廣場是遊客區,購物大道兩旁有餐廳、紀念品店、時裝店等,令人目不睱給,就在我看櫥窗時,中招了。

當時我站在街上,背包在後,正專心看櫥窗擺設,忽然聽到「吱」一聲的拉鏈聲,我吃了一驚,整個人即時向後轉,看見幾名(看似)互不相識的路人。

離我最近的是一位女士,我站在櫥窗前,她站在我身後半步,她一頭金髮向後梳並紮成馬尾,穿黑皮衣、配黃圍巾、緊身牛仔褲,打扮新潮;但我突然轉身,她灰綠色的瞳孔緊張地一縮,緊捏了一下握在手上的膠水瓶,然後(裝作)不慌不忙地喝水。

女士旁邊是一位男士,他們相距一個身位,看似互不相識,男士身材微胖,他看見我突然轉身也無反應,繼續(扮?)看櫥窗。

對面街有一位老紳士走過,老紳士無停步,直行直過。

商店內半明半暗,店門是關上的,但不確定有否上鎖,由始至終無人從店內出來視察情況。

 

當我看着女士時,我以為她是遊客,她衣著光鮮,完全不似窮人,長着一頭金髮又化妝,一點賊相都無,我以為自己聽錯,就轉頭繼續看櫥窗,同時伸手摸摸背包,才發現背包拉鏈已大開,我大驚,再轉身,看見女士的手正伸出,但見我又轉頭,她即時改變動作,又在喝水。

 

我當下未理解整個偷竊過程,但疑心大起,覺得情況不對,即時決定不作多想,立馬轉身,邁開腳步,離開現場再說,當時無人阻止我離開,亦無人從後追趕我。

 

 

事後我點算背包內物品,一樣不缺,錢包手機俱在,真的十分幸運。

 

當晚我與CS Host Angela、Kico分享上述經歷,Angela與Kico都是正宗葡國人,Angela一口斷定:「你看見的那位女士就是扒手,里斯本好多扒手,他/她們不是黑人,不是吉卜賽人,扒手外貌一如本地人或遊客,金髮碧眼,甚至有扒手是白人,我去市區都要攬實手袋。」

 

Kico是前黑幫老大,他聳聳肩,說:「我每次走在Rossio廣場都無人扒我,我們黑幫有一套獨特步姿,明眼人一看就知是自己人,不會質然來犯;雖然我早已金盤洗手,但這步姿真的改不了。」

 

我即時請Kico教我行黑幫步姿,他說很難教,總之外八字腿、兩手屌屌揈,好像嬉哈歌星就對了,我明天又要入市區,今晚練習下,希望可以騙到扒手。

 

 

誰知第二天,我又在滿員電車遇劫,滿員電車寸步難移,學曉黑幫步姿也無法施展,唉。

地面電車是里斯本的主要交通工具之一,我在總站上車,但下一個站忽然極多乘客湧上車,我已即時將背包移向前面,但仍是遲了一步,背包拉鏈又大開了,我立時脫下背包,即場點算,幸好無失物,雖然扒手難以跳車逃走,但當時人頭湧湧,眾聲喧嘩,實在難以鎖定扒手,我唯有全程攬實背包,欣賞鄰座吉卜賽人的豐富表情……

那電車途經一座城堡,我原想去城堡參觀,但路牌太細,無法看清,車內又無電子到站板,司機忙於應付扒手、攔車客、遊人,還要開車,真係踢哂腳,根本無可能幫我,最後我唯有放棄去城堡,看見Rossio廣場就下車,坐船回家了。

 

 

里斯本的扒手讓我發現自己對「種族」有偏見,原來我一直以為扒手=窮人,窮人=黑人、吉卜賽人,即使明確看到扒手長相,卻因為對方是「白人」,是「衣著入時的女士」而輕輕放過(雖然放過扒手應該更安全),還是那句老諺語:人不可貌相啊!

 

 

 

This is Rossio Square, a famous landmark in Lisbon with LOTS of pickpocket, beware!

 

I stayed in Lisbon for 6 days and was pickpocketed for 3 times. Lucky I lost nothing.

 

The 3 most pickpocket area is Rossio Square, the shopping avenue next to it and on the trams. I would 100% be a target because I have a tourist-Asian face and a backpack. My backpack was on my back and nothing was lost when I was traveling in Moscow, London, Copenhagen, Oslo, Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Riga, Vilnius, Warsaw, Brussels, Ghent, Amsterdam, Utrecht, Luxembourg, Dublin, Galway, Edinburgh. But tourists got to put their backpack at front or 100% would be the pickpocket’s target.

 

Rossio Square was a tourist area. There are restaurants, souvenir shops and fashion stores in the shopping avenue. I was being pickpocket when I was looking at the shop window.

I was standing on the street and looking at the shop window with my backpack behind. I heard a squeak noise suddenly and I turned back immediately and saw a few passers-by.

 

A lady was standing to me most. I stood in front of the shop window and she stood a feet behind me. Her blond hair tied up in a ponytail and she wore fashionable black leather jacket, yellow scarf and tight jeans. Her greyish green eyes shrink a little nervously because I suddenly turned back. She grasped the plastic bottle on her hand tightly and (pretend to) drink the water at ease.

 

A gentleman was standing next to the lady. They were a few feet apart. They didn’t seem to know each other. The gentleman was slightly oversized. He made no response even I turned around suddenly and (pretend to?) looked at the shop window continuous

 

An old gentleman was walking across the street. He didn’t stop at all and keep walking.

 

The lights inside the shop was half lightened and half dark. The shop door was closed but I didn’t know if it was knocked. No one came out of the shop to look at the situation at all.

 

I thought the lady was a tourist when I looked at her. She dressed in fashion and didn’t seem a poor person at all. She had beautiful blond hair with made up on her face and didn’t look like a thief at all.

 

I thought I heard wrong and turned around and looked at the shop window again but I stretched my hands to my backpack and found the zip was wide opened. I was in full surprise and turned around again immediately. The lady was about to stretch her hands but she changed her motion in mid-air into drinking water when she saw me turning around again.

 

I had no idea of what was happening but I felt something was wrong. I walked away immediately. No one preventing me walked away. No one chasing me from behind.

 

I count what I had lost after I left the site. I was lucky that I had lost nothing. My wallet and mobile phone were still there.

 

 

I shared my crazy experience in Rossio Square with my Lisbon CS Host Angela and Kico that night. Angela and Kico are local Portuguese.

 

Angela said firmly, ‘The lady you saw was the thief. There are lots of thieves in Lisbon. They are not Black, not Gypsy. They looked like local people or even tourists. Some thieves are even White. Even local people like me have to hold our bags tight when we go to the city,’

 

Kico was an ex-gangster. He said simply, ‘No one ever stole from me in Rossio Square. We gangster can identify ourselves from a special walking style and the thieves wouldn’t steal from another thief or gangster. I am not a gangster member anymore but I really can’t change that walking style,’

 

I asked Kico to teach me the gangster walking style immediately. Kico said it was hard to teach. Anyway, I just walked in splay-footed, hands fly free in air, just walk like a hip-hop singers is fine.

I had to visit down town again next day so I practised walk like a gangster and hope to disguise myself into a thief.

 

 

I was being pickpocket again next day in a tram full of people. I couldn’t walk like a gangster in a full tram even I practiceed hard last night, sigh…

 

Tram is one of the important transportation in Lisbon. I got on the tram in the terminal but lots of people rushed into the tram in the next stop. I turned my backpack to front immediately but I was too late. My backpack zip was wide opened again. I took off the backpack and count what I had lost immediately. I was lucky that everything were still in my backpack.

Although the thief was hard to escape on a moving tram but I couldn’t identify the thief because it was full of people. I just held my backpack tight and admiring the ever-changing expressions of the passionate Gypsies next to me…

 

The tram suppose drove pass a castle that I was going to visit. But I couldn’t see the small road signs clearly and there didn’t have an electronic notice board on the tram. The tram driver were busy to deal with the thieves, people who block the way in order to get on the tram and the tourists. He was real busy and couldn’t help me.

I had to give up visiting the castle at the end and got off in Rossio Square and took a ferry back home.

 

 

 

I found myself had a bias on ‘race’ because of the thieves in Lisbon. I always thought thieves = poor people and poor people = Blacks & Gypsies.

I saw the thief clearly but let her go because she is a ‘White’ and ‘A lady dressed in fashion’. (Although it should be safer if I let the thief go)

 

It’s the old saying again, ‘You can’t judge people by appearance’!

一落機就見到!Ad in airport!
一落機就見到!Ad in airport!
著名廣場Rossio Square
著名廣場Rossio Square
夜花店Flower shop at night
夜花店Flower shop at night
勁多扒手lots of Thief
勁多扒手lots of Thief
入夜at night
入夜at night
遊客們tourists
遊客們tourists
櫥窗window shop
櫥窗window shop
玻璃與影子Glass and shadow
玻璃與影子Glass and shadow
鬧區city center
鬧區city center
葡國電車tram in Lisbon
葡國電車tram in Lisbon
電車tram
電車tram
分差路turning point
分差路turning point
車站旁station
車站旁station
夜教堂church at night
夜教堂church at night
夜教堂church at night.
夜教堂church at night.
夜電車tram at night
夜電車tram at night
城堡castle
城堡castle
夜at night
夜at night
十架像The Cross
十架像The Cross
靚屋beautiful house
靚屋beautiful house
綠牆green wall
綠牆green wall
劃過藍天Across the sky
劃過藍天Across the sky
葡國陽光好Sunshine Lisbon
葡國陽光好Sunshine Lisbon
好有趣的建築~interesting house
好有趣的建築~interesting house
民生區residential area
民生區residential area
古典與新潮Classic and modern
古典與新潮Classic and modern
水天一色Blue
水天一色Blue
夕陽sunset
夕陽sunset

里斯本天際線

Lisbon Skyline